Manufacturing my final garment- Long black jacket.

After I had completed my toile I was then able to begin the manufacture for my final garment. I had selected my 2 final fabrics that I was using.

I started off by creating a lay plan for my long black jacket, this was to help me when placing my fabrics onto my material as this would teach me the best possible way to waste as little fabric as I could which would then help me save money. I would then create a costing sheet to show how much it cost altogether to create my garment.

I created my lay plan by measuring the width of my fabric, I then had to get some pattern paper and lay my pattern pieces onto it, I had to make them fit together by wasting as little fabric as possible, this then allowed me to create a plan. Once I had found the best way to place my pattern pieces onto my paper to waste the least fabric as possible, this meant me playing around with where I could place my patterns, the least amount of fabric that I used when cutting my pattern out was 3m 20cm.

Before I could begin cutting out of my final fabric I decided to alter my design slightly by adding a stand onto it so that I could give my jacket a fastening. I liked the idea of using a broach to fasten the middle of my jacket together. I did this by changing my pattern slightly, I thought about how far out I wanted the fastening stand to come out, I was then able to draw this onto some pattern paper and attach it onto my front pattern piece.

1) Once my lay plan was created and I had altered my pattern I could then pin all of my pattern pieces down onto my fabric in the same order as I had done them on my lay plan, after checking to ensure that they were all correct and that all of my pieces were placed onto the straight grain of my fabric again checking using my grain line. I was then able to pin all of my pattern pieces down and begin cutting them out of my fabric.

2) The entire long black jacket was to be cut out of my shiny black satin fabric which meant that I didn't need to figure out another lay plan for any other fabric for this particular garment. After I had all of my cut out pattern pieces from my final fabric I was then able to begin to piece them all together.

3) Now that I had all of my pieces cut from my final fabric I began by tracing through my darts using tailors chalk onto the wrong side of my fabric, I traced through all of my darts and then I began to sew them together ensuring that my stitch was on the wrong side of my fabric.

4) Once all of my darts were in place I then had to attach my 2 front pieces onto my back side of my jacket, I did this by placing the right side of my front piece to the right side of my back piece, I was then able to pin across the edge and then sew down using a 1cm seam allowance. I did the same to attach my other front piece to the back.

5) After my 2 front pieces were attached to my back piece, I was then able to attach the shoulder seams together, I did this by placing the right side of the front shoulder to the right side of the back shoulder, I then pinned them together and sewed across using a 1cm seam allowance.

6) After attaching my shoulders together I then had to insert my sleeves into the arm holes of my jacket. I started off by sewing my sleeves up by placing the right sides of my sleeves together and sewing across 1cm, I did this for both sleeves.

7) Now that my sleeves were sewn up I was then able to start fitting them, I started off by pinning the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder seem I then pinned the seam of the sleeve to the bottom of the side seam I then had to meet up the notches. I then had to start easing the rest of the sleeve into the arm hole. Once I eased it to fit I was then able to sew all the way around the edge with a 1cm seam allowance. I then repeated this again for the other side.

8) I then had to neaten all of my seams using an over lock stitch.

9) Once all of my seams were neatened and over locked I then had to create a facing to go along the front and around the neck of my jacket. I did this by drawing a facing onto my pattern using a 5cm depth. I drew it the same shape as my pattern, I was then able to trace off my pattern for my facing. I then had to do the same on the neck of my back pattern piece.

10) After I created my pattern pieces for my facing I then had to place them onto my fabric and pin them in place I was then able to cut them out. With my facings that I had now cut from my fabric I had to begin attaching them together, I did this by taking my 2 front facing pieces, I then had to place the right side of the front to the edge of the right side of the back piece. I was then able to sew across 1cm I did this for both sides of my facing.

11) After joining my facing together I then had to fit it to my jacket. I did this by placing the right side of my facing along the edge of the right side of my jacket. I then pinned it all in place and when I could see that it fitted right I was then able to sew it together. I did this by sewing around the neck using a 1cm seam allowance and then sewing down my front pieces again using a 1cm seam allowance. I then had to snip a small piece of the corner away where I had joined my facing to my front jacket piece this was so that I could turn it all the right way and bag it out without any bulk and this way it would sit flat and look more professional.

12. When my facing was then attached to my jacket I was then able to over lock and raw edges or seams and then press it flat.