Manufacture- Final cropped jacket with lace panel.

Once I had toiled my cropped jacket I was then able to cut out of my final fabric and begin the manufacture process.

1) I started off by getting all of my final pattern pieces and placing them onto my fabric, making sure that anything that needed to be cut on the fold such as my back pattern piece was placed on the fold the correct way. With all of my patterns I had to make sure that my grain line was parallel to the selvedge so that my fabric would sit straight on the body.

2) Once I had ensured that all of my patterns were laid out correctly I was then able to pin all of my pattern pieces down and begin cutting them from my fabric. I also had to cut my panel out of my second fabric as I was inserting a lace panel into the back of my jacket so I laid this pattern piece onto my lace making sure that it was being cut x1 on the fold.

3) Now that I had all of my pattern pieces that I needed I was then able to begin manufacturing my garment. I started off by tracing my darts from my pattern onto my fabric using tailors chalk on the wrong side of my fabric. I was then able to begin sewing in all of my darts on my front and back pieces.

4) I then ironed all of my darts flat.

5) When all of my darts were in place I was then able to sew my 2 front pieces onto my back piece, I did this by placing them right side to right side and then pinning along the edge. I was then able to sew down using a 1cm seam allowance, I then repeated this again on the other side.

6) when I had my 2 front pieces attached to the back piece, I was then able to sew up my shoulders, I did this again by placing my fabric right side to right side I was then able to pin along the shoulders and then sew across using a 1cm seam allowance repeated this method for both shoulders.

7) I then had to start to think about placing my lace panel in, I started off by taking my waist panel piece and my lace panel piece, I had to place the right side of my lace panel to the right side of my waist panel I then pinned along the edge and then sewed across using a 1cm seam allowance.

8) After my waist and lace panel pieces were attached together I then had to insert them into the back of my jacket, however this then meant that I had to sew at a right angle so I did 2 practice samples before beginning to sew my final fabrics. I started off using a small scrap of calico and I just practiced by sewing one corner once I had done this I was then able to do a full sample.

9) After I felt a little more confident sewing at a right angle I was then able to begin in my final fabrics I did this by placing the right side of my jacket on top of the right side of my lace panel I then had to pin it along the edge, I then started sewing using a 1cm seam allowance. Once I had reached the corner I then had to turn my panel to fit it along the vertical edge. I did this by keeping the needle of my machine in my fabric at the point that I stopped sewing, I then had to cut into the corner of my back fabric piece, I was then able to twist my fabric and then sew along the edge again using a 1cm seam allowance. I repeated this method on each of the 4 edges ensuring that I snipped into the corners so that it allowed me to keep twisting my fabric around.

5. Now that my back panel piece was sewn in I then had to sew the edge of my waist panel to the edge of my front pieces by placing them right side to right side, I then sewed across 1cm doing the same again on the other side.

6) After I had constructed the main bodice of my cropped jacket I then had to put my sleeves into the arm holes of my jacket. I did this by taking my sleeve pieces and I placed them right side to right side and then pinned along the edge and then sewed down 1cm. I did this for both of my sleeve pieces.

7) I then turned my sleeve inside out, I then had to pin the right side of my sleeve to the right side of the arm hole I then lined my top seam, bottom seam and notches and then I had to ease the rest of my sleeve in to fit pinning along the edge. The sleeve head was slightly to big for the arm hole therefor it did leave a small gather at the top. I did the same for inserting both of my sleeves.

8) I then had to over lock all of my seams inside of my jacket to give a neater finish.

9) After I finished manufacturing my jacket I then had to think of how to finish off the edges, I decided that a facing would be best. I created my facing by using my pattern pieces I then drew a facing along the edge 5cm in depth down the front edge of my pattern piece and across the neck. I then did the same to create a facing for the back neck piece. Once I had created a facing pattern I was then able to trace them off and cut them out of fabric. I just used the same fabric that I had used on the rest of my jacket to create my facing.

10) I cut out my facing pieces from my fabric I then placed the right side of the front piece to the back neck piece I then sewed across using a 1cm seam allowance, I did this again for the other side.

11) Once I had put all of my facing together I then had to sew them into my jacket I did this by placing the right side of my facing to the right side of my fabric I firstly pinned my neck of the jacket and the neck of the facing together to check that it fitted. It was slightly out as my seams didn't quite meet up, however this wasn't to much of a problem as the facing would be on the inside of the jacket.

12) once I had sewn the neck of my facing to the neck of my jacket I could then place the right side of my front facing to the right side of my front jacket pieces, I then pinned along the edge and sewed down 1cm I did the same on both sides of my jacket. When I had sewn my facing into place I then had to turn it all the right way, I had to snip the corners of where my jacket went into a point, this was so that I could bag it out without any excess bulk in order for it all to sit flat.

13) After my facing was attached to my jacket I then had to overlock all along the raw edges, I was then able to press all of my seams flat and press my facing flat inside my jacket so that it lay flat on the body. The next thing that I had to do after pressing all of my seams flat I then had to tack the neck facing to the seam allowance of my lace so that it held it down. I did this by doing a quick hand tacked running stitch across the facing and edge of the lace just to hold it neatly inside the jacket.

14) After all of my facing was fitted inside my jacket was then complete, I decided to leave my hem until my garment is fitted to a model to save my time of unpicking the garment if the length was not right.