The manufacture process- Toiling

Toiling

1. Once I had completed my pattern I then had to begin toiling, I had to lay my pattern onto my calico ready to cut out, the first thing that I had to think of before cutting out my pattern was my lay plan as I wanted to consider the use of my fabric as I wanted to waste as little fabric as possible. After laying all my pattern onto my fabric I figured that the best way to place it would take up 1.42m of fabric.

2. Once I had found the best way to place my pattern onto my fabric I was then able to pin it all on and cut it out.

3. Once my pattern was cut out I then had to sew all of my darts up on my front and back fabric pieces and on my waistband pieces.

4. When I had sewn all of my darts I then had to sew my waistband pieces to my front then sew the back waistband pieces to the back. When I had put these together I then had to sew my 2 front pieces to my back pieces, I did the by putting the right sides of the fabric together then pinning along the edge and sewing a 1cm seam allowance.

5. After I had sewn together my fronts and back I had then completed my top bodice piece. I was then able to sew together my skirt piece for my coat, I did this again by sewing my 2 front pieces onto my back skirt piece I did this by placing the fabric right side to right side then I pinned them together and sewed down using a 1cm seam allowance.

6. once I had my top bodice piece and my bottom skirt piece I then had to attatch these together, I did this by placing my right sides of myy fabric together I then had to pin all the way along the edge and then sew down using a 1cm seam allowance.

7. When I looked at my manufactured bodice and skirt I realised that my darts didnt exactly meet up, this was due to me missing off one of my seam allowances on one of my patterns and I also didnt stick exactly to a 1cm seam allowance when sewing the bodice of my coat dress.

8. After I had constructed the main part of the garment I then had to sew up my shoulders by placing right sides of the fabric together then sewing across again using a 1cm seam allowance. Once my shoulders had been sewn together I was then able to attatch my collar piece on.

9. Firstly I had to sew across my 2 collar pieces then do a retaining row so that when I attatched it to the actual garment the sew line would not be visible making it look neater and more professional.

10. After stitching across it I was then able to attatch it onto the neck of my garment I did this by pinning along the edge of the collar to hold it in place ensuring that i matched the notches up, I then stitched across the edge using a 1cm seam allowance.

11. Once I had put my collar piece on I was then able to insert my zip as I wanted it to go all the way to the top of the collar, I started off by measuring my zip on my garment ensuring that it was long enough, I then had to measure it on the other side to make sure that it matched up equally on both sides, I also wanted to make sure that the waistband of my coat and the neck matched up to.




12. I then pinned my zip into place and then sewed down the edge of the zip on both centre front sides keeping fairly close to the edge as I didnt want loads of the zip tape to show when my garment was zipped up.

13. Once I had sewn my zip into place I then had to place my sleeve onto my garment this was a little more tricky as i was doing my sleeve from lace with no lining, I had to place my sleeve pattern onto my lace and as my lace was quite stretchy I found it quite challenging to cut out. Once I finally managed to cut out my lace sleeve I was then able to start attatching it to my garment.

14. The first thing that I had to do was overlock the under arm of my sleeve, however i had to be careful not to stretch my fabric or this could have made the shape of my sleeve change which means it may not have fitted to the rest of my garment correctly.

15. After overlocking down the edge I was then able to pin it to the armhole of my garment, I did this by turning the sleeve the right way around then pinning it around the edge making sure that my under arm seam of my sleeve matched up with the one on the rest of my garment then I had to match the notches together and then pin along the edge until it was as flat as I could get it. I was then able to sew along the edge 1cm.

16. Once all of my garment had been out together I then quickly hand stitched the top plastic bit of my zip down inside my garment to give it a neater finish, I would also on my final garment topstitch all of the way down the edge of my zip on both centre front pieces to give it a nicer finish, I just found myself struggling for time on my toile.

0