The manufacture process- Patterning.

I have recently started the manufacture process for my final collection in time for my end of year fashion show, I will be documenting each step as i create my patterns. toiles and sample difficult areas right up to the finished result.

Patterning

1. The first thing that I had to do to was draw around a basic dress block front and back making sure that I traced off all of the markings. Once I had done this I then had to cut them out.

2. As my design was quite complex I had to break it down into different sections so that I didn't find it quite as confusing. I started off by altering the waistband on my block. I measured on the mannequin how far above and below the waistline I wanted my waistband to be as I needed to extend it. I went 10cm above the waistline and 4cm below to create a large waistband as it was on my design. Once I had decided the width I then had to mark it off on my pattern measuring from the waistline.

3.I cut along the waistline. I then had to use the slash and spread method to move my darts. I cut down one side of the dart up to the bust line and I then cut up my other dart to the same point. As i closed up my top dart this then opened up the bottom dart.

4. I had to slash and spread the bottom of the dress block. I had to split it into 4 sections by drawing 3 lines on then I cut up each of them for me to be able to slash and spread.

5. I then had to close up my dart which then opened up the bottom of my pattern more.






6. I then got another piece of paper and drew on a right angle then folded it in half as I was creating half of my back skirt pattern piece.

7. I then had to line the edge of my pattern that I had just slashed and spread. I lined the centre back line on the 90` folded line and then lined my side line up with my drawn on line this then gave me a smooth edge at the top of my pattern.

8. I then taped my slashed pattern down and then drew around it, making sure that I traced off all my lines and markings.

9. I then had to fold my pattern in half and then cut around it. When I started to cut around it I realised my paper didnt meet on one side because i'd cut it too short.

Problem Solve

To problem solve I had to add more paper to my pattern to make it the same size. I then carried on cutting it out so that I had a complete back pattern piece.

10. I then had to do the same with my front pattern piece, however I had to consider my zip while creating my pattern as I was putting a feature zip in the centre front.

11. When creating my front pattern piece I realised that as I was having a zip in the centre front that I would only need to cut out one front pattern piece and just cut X2 out of my fabric.

12. Once I had drawn around my front pattern piece and traced off all my markings I had to think about my seam allowance and where I needed to add it in. I became confused as to whether I needed to add a seam allowance to my centre front.

Problem solve

To problem solve whether I needed to add a seam allowance in I had to match up on my pattern where the edge of the fabric would come too, I then realised that as the edge of the fabric would meet on the centre front line then I wouldn't need to add a seam allowance to that line.

13. I then added a 1cm seam allowance around the front of my skirt except for my centre front line, I could then cut it out.

Neck

14. I then had to create a pattern piece for my collar piece. I had to start off by modelling on the stand using pattern paper to try and achieve the shape and size neck piece I wanted through trial and error.

15. Once I had got my initial pattern piece for my collar I then had to measure it on my neck as it looked slightly small, it was slightly tight so I then had to alter it.





16. I measured my collar pattern piece against my bodice pattern piece to make sure that it fitted together properly. When I measured it against my pattern it was 0.75cm to small. I needed to extend my collar piece so that it would have more ease around the neck, I also had to add in 0.75.

Problem solving

17. When problem solving how to make my collar piece bigger I had to use the slash and spread method as this allowed me to open up my pattern to be able to extend my pattern.

18. I then traced around my new pattern and then cut it out.

Sleeve

19. I then had to create my pattern for my sleeve, I did this by tracing around a basic sleeve block making sure I traced off all my markings.

20. When I looked at my sleeve after tracing it off I decided that the sleeve was too big and not quite the right shape so I had to adapt it to how I wanted it. I did this by slashing up my pattern piece and then gathering it in to make it smaller, when I got it it to the size that I wanted i then traced around it and re-cut it back out.