Wednesday 18 April 2012

Manufacturing a shirt...

Recently in our pattern cutting class we began to make a shirt. Firstly, I had to cut all of my pattern pieces out of my fabric in order for me to begin to manufacture it.
Once I had got all of my fabric pieces I then started off by making a box pleat in the back of the shirt.
I then attached the base of both yokes to the back of the shirt by putting the back of the shirt between the yokes.
I then had to make sure that the right sides of the yokes were next to the fabric. I then pressed the yoke seam allowance away from the back.
I then pressed the back button stand to match the pattern and stitched along the stand.
After that I attached the front shirt piece and back yoke together at the shoulder seam. I did this by using a 1.5cm seam allowance. I then had to press the seam flat towards the yoke.

Creating the Collar stand

I then started to create my collar and collar stand. I started off by ironing my interfacing onto my two collar pieces and my two collar stand pieces.

I then placed the right sides of the collar together using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Once I had done that I then had to reduce the bulk by half, especially on the points of the collar. Then I could turn it to the right side and press flat.
I sandwiched the collar between the collar stands using a 1.5cm seam allowance, reducing the bulk after I had sewn them. I then turned the right way and pressed flat.

I then had to pin and sew the collar stand to the shirt, placing the right side of the collar stand to the right side of the main body of the shirt. I then sewed a 1.5cm seam allowance to attatch them.
I flipped the collar over and finished off the collar by sewing a top stitch along the collar stand.

Collar stand


Inserting the Vent

Once the collar was complete I then had to start putting the sleeves and cuffs onto my shirt. I started out by cutting a piece of bias binding for the sleeve vent. I then had to attach the binding to the wrong side of the fabric ensuring that I reduced the bulk. I was then able to press and top stitch on the right side of the fabric.

I then sewed a triangle at the top of the vent.

This is where I had to pin the vent so that I knew where to sew.

Once the vents were completed I then had to start attaching the cuff to my sleeve. I did this by gathering the bottom of the sleeve. I sewed along the sleeve without back tacking and I was then left with two loose threads which I was then able to pull to give my sleeve gather.

I placed the right sides of the sleeves fabric together and I attached the sleeve to the main body of the shirt.
I matched the notches at the top of the sleeve on both the front and the back sides. I then had to ease the sleeve into the opening.

I was then able to sew around the sleeve using a 1.5cm seam allowance. I then overlocked down the side and reduced the bulk only slightly.

I then sewed a 1.5cm seam allowance from the bottom of the side seams up to the bottom of the sleeve ensuring that the armhole seams matched on both sides.

I made the cuffs by ironing on interfacing. I then sewed a 1.5cm seam allowance down both sides making sure I reduced the bulk.
I attached the cuff to the sleeve by attaching the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. I then flipped over and pressed. To finish off the cuffs I top stitched along the cuff.

I will keep you posted on my finished garment shortly.


Here I had to check that my shirt was level. It was, and I had no alterations to make.









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