Toile diary

I am now finished with patterning and manufacturing my third toile.
I started off by using the basic trouser block and a sample toile, I used the toile to model on the stand and then I altered it to the shape and size that I wanted.

1. I pinned down the side of the trousers to make them more fitted, I wanted my trousers to fit to the shape of the body and then be more straight cigarette legged.

2. I then traced around the basic trouser block ensuring that I traced off all of my markings.

3. I was then able to measure the amount I was taking the trousers in either side, this then allowed me to adapt my trouser block by taking the amount off either side of my pattern.

4. Once I had adapted the size of my trousers I then has to adapt the top of them as I wanted them to be high waisted, I did this by measuring on the pattern how far up I wanted the waist band of my trousers to be. As I didn't know how tall my model would be yet until the trousers were fitted I decided to add a little extra on so that I could always take them down if needed.

5. When the initial shape and size of my trousers was patterned for I was then able to start thinking about creating the lace panel that would run down the side of my trousers.

6.  I created my pattern for my panel on my trousers in the same way that I create the patterns for my facings. I had to measure how far across I wanted my panel to be, when I had a width that I was happy with I was then able to draw this along the edge of my trouser pattern piece.

7. I cut the panel off of my pattern piece because I didn't want to add it on as this would alter the shape and size of my trousers.



















Manufacture of trouser toile

1) Now that I had my complete pattern pieces I was then able to begin manufacturing my toile. I started by placing all of my pattern pieces onto my calico again trying to use as little fabric as I could.

2) Once I had lay all of my pattern pieces into place and checked that their grain lines were all parallel to the selvedge I was then able to pin them all on and begin cutting them out.

3) I began by tracing my darts from my pattern onto the wrong side of my fabric. When all of my darts were drawn onto my fabric I was then able to sew them up. I then pressed my darts flat.

4) After I had sewn my darts into place I was then able to begin the manufacture of my toile, I started off by pinning in my panels down the side of the trouser leg. I did this by placing the right side of my panel to the right side of my front and back pieces along either edge.

5) I then pinned them along the edge.

6) Once they were pinned in place I was then able to sew down both edges using a 1cm seam allowance I then did this again when attaching my other panel into my other front and back leg pieces.

7) I was then able to join my 2 front trouser pieces together by placing them right side to right side, I then pinned down the edge. I could then sew down using a 1cm seam allowance. I could then do this again to join my 2 back pieces together, however as I was having my zip in the centre back I started sewing about half the way down, I sewed down using a 1cm seam allowance.

8) Now that my 2 fronts and my 2 backs were together I was then able to sew together the crotch and my trouser legs together, I thought that this would be easier to do in one go so I placed the trouser legs and crotch right side to right side and pinned along my sewing line. Once I had pinned them all into place I was then able to sew straight across. Starting at the bottom of one trouser leg, straight up along the crotch and back down the other trouser leg.

9) Now that my seams were together I was then able to take all of my pins out and then insert my zip into the centre back. I decided that I would use an invisible zip. I find zips very difficult to master therefor I did struggle with inserting my zip.


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