Cad

In our CAD session we were learning to scale and move.

Here is where I had to open up my fashion figure that I had previously traced around.

Applying a filter- I added a filter to the shoulder of my figure, by using the distort tool, I was then able to play around with it until I got a shape and look that I was happy with.

Symbols library and proportion: We had to add symbols/ decorations to our images. To do this we had to locate the symbols library by going to windows > symbol library > nature and then chose the symbols that I wanted to use. To change the proportion of the symbol I used the transform tool.

Frame an image and have pattern showing through text-  I had to find an image with a pattern that I liked to use to show through my text. Once i had found an image that i was happy with I had to scale down the image. I was then able to clip and mask my image to create text with a pattern.

Toile Diary - the manufacture process.

Manufacture of my jacket toile.

1. First I had to begin by patterning my jacket, I started off with the basic body block and traced off both the front and back, ensuring that I traced off all my markings.









2. I then cut my bodice pattern out, I then had to adapt it to move the darts that I didn't need as I wanted my jacket to be quite boxy.

Moving the darts.

3. I then got the sleeve block and traced around it, I then had to adapt the sleeve to make it smaller to the size that I wanted. I did this by using the slash and spread method. I cut up my sleeve pattern 5 times and I then pulled them in to reduce the width, when I got the sleeve to a size that I liked I was then able to tape it down onto pattern paper and trace it off.

 4. Once I had both my basic patterns I then had to concentrate on my back panel piece for my jacket, I did this by having to draw the panel onto my back pattern piece to the size that I wanted. I then broke the pattern into 3 different pieces, I had the back of my jacket, the back panel and the waist panel. I did this so that I knew which bit went where when manufacturing the garment.

5. Once I had my panel I was then able to trace each one off, I added a 1cm seam allowance to each side except the side that would be cut on the fold, I was then able to cut these out ready for toiling.

Manufacturing

1. I lay all of my pattern pieces onto my calico fabric which I had folded length ways, ensuring that anything that was needed to be cut on the fold was, Once I knew all of my patterns were correct I was then able to pin them all down and cut around each one.

2. Once I had all of my pieces cut out I was then able to start manufacturing my toile. I started off by marking off my darts on my 2 front pieces, once they were marked in place I was then able to sew my darts up.

3. When I had sewn up my darts I then had to sew my 2 front pieces onto my back piece, I did this by placing the right sides of the fabric together and pinning down the edge, I then sewed down the edge using a 1cm seam allowance, I did the same with my other front piece.

4. Once my front and back pieces were together I was then able to sew the shoulders of my jacket together, I pinned them right side to right side I then sewed across again using a 1cm seam allowance.

5. After I had put the majority of my jacket together I was then able to put my panel pieces in, I started off by putting the waist panel in I did this by placing the right sides of my fabric together, I then pinned it on, I was then able to sew down both edges 1cm.

6. After my waist panel was in I was a bit unsure of how my back panel was going to work so I decided to leave that until last, so I decided to put my sleeves in, I did this by pinning my sleeve around the edge of the armhole of the jacket trying to ease it in to fit the shape. Once I had pinned the sleeve in place I was then able to sew along the edge 1cm, I then repeated this process for my other sleeve, I then had to place the right sides of my sleeve together and sewed down to join my sleeve together, I then did this again on my other sleeve.

Arm hole and sleeve.

Sleeve.

7. When my sleeves were sewn into place I realised that the top of my sleeve had slightly rucked up so that I may have to reduce the width of the top of my sleeve on my pattern piece in order for it to fit better.

Back panel piece.

8. The last thing that I had left to do was sew my back panel piece in, I struggled with this slightly as it was sewing at a right angle, I had to place it right side to right side, I then had to pin along each of the edges, Once they were all pinned in place I was then able to sew them together I had to sew down 1cm then across 1cm creating a right angle. As I will be using lace to create my back panel I may have to add a seam to my back jacket piece to make the sewing more simple.








Front of jacket.



Back of jacket.

The manufacture process- Toiling

Toiling

1. Once I had completed my pattern I then had to begin toiling, I had to lay my pattern onto my calico ready to cut out, the first thing that I had to think of before cutting out my pattern was my lay plan as I wanted to consider the use of my fabric as I wanted to waste as little fabric as possible. After laying all my pattern onto my fabric I figured that the best way to place it would take up 1.42m of fabric.

2. Once I had found the best way to place my pattern onto my fabric I was then able to pin it all on and cut it out.

3. Once my pattern was cut out I then had to sew all of my darts up on my front and back fabric pieces and on my waistband pieces.

4. When I had sewn all of my darts I then had to sew my waistband pieces to my front then sew the back waistband pieces to the back. When I had put these together I then had to sew my 2 front pieces to my back pieces, I did the by putting the right sides of the fabric together then pinning along the edge and sewing a 1cm seam allowance.

5. After I had sewn together my fronts and back I had then completed my top bodice piece. I was then able to sew together my skirt piece for my coat, I did this again by sewing my 2 front pieces onto my back skirt piece I did this by placing the fabric right side to right side then I pinned them together and sewed down using a 1cm seam allowance.

6. once I had my top bodice piece and my bottom skirt piece I then had to attatch these together, I did this by placing my right sides of myy fabric together I then had to pin all the way along the edge and then sew down using a 1cm seam allowance.

7. When I looked at my manufactured bodice and skirt I realised that my darts didnt exactly meet up, this was due to me missing off one of my seam allowances on one of my patterns and I also didnt stick exactly to a 1cm seam allowance when sewing the bodice of my coat dress.

8. After I had constructed the main part of the garment I then had to sew up my shoulders by placing right sides of the fabric together then sewing across again using a 1cm seam allowance. Once my shoulders had been sewn together I was then able to attatch my collar piece on.

9. Firstly I had to sew across my 2 collar pieces then do a retaining row so that when I attatched it to the actual garment the sew line would not be visible making it look neater and more professional.

10. After stitching across it I was then able to attatch it onto the neck of my garment I did this by pinning along the edge of the collar to hold it in place ensuring that i matched the notches up, I then stitched across the edge using a 1cm seam allowance.

11. Once I had put my collar piece on I was then able to insert my zip as I wanted it to go all the way to the top of the collar, I started off by measuring my zip on my garment ensuring that it was long enough, I then had to measure it on the other side to make sure that it matched up equally on both sides, I also wanted to make sure that the waistband of my coat and the neck matched up to.




12. I then pinned my zip into place and then sewed down the edge of the zip on both centre front sides keeping fairly close to the edge as I didnt want loads of the zip tape to show when my garment was zipped up.

13. Once I had sewn my zip into place I then had to place my sleeve onto my garment this was a little more tricky as i was doing my sleeve from lace with no lining, I had to place my sleeve pattern onto my lace and as my lace was quite stretchy I found it quite challenging to cut out. Once I finally managed to cut out my lace sleeve I was then able to start attatching it to my garment.

14. The first thing that I had to do was overlock the under arm of my sleeve, however i had to be careful not to stretch my fabric or this could have made the shape of my sleeve change which means it may not have fitted to the rest of my garment correctly.

15. After overlocking down the edge I was then able to pin it to the armhole of my garment, I did this by turning the sleeve the right way around then pinning it around the edge making sure that my under arm seam of my sleeve matched up with the one on the rest of my garment then I had to match the notches together and then pin along the edge until it was as flat as I could get it. I was then able to sew along the edge 1cm.

16. Once all of my garment had been out together I then quickly hand stitched the top plastic bit of my zip down inside my garment to give it a neater finish, I would also on my final garment topstitch all of the way down the edge of my zip on both centre front pieces to give it a nicer finish, I just found myself struggling for time on my toile.

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The manufacture process- Patterning.

I have recently started the manufacture process for my final collection in time for my end of year fashion show, I will be documenting each step as i create my patterns. toiles and sample difficult areas right up to the finished result.

Patterning

1. The first thing that I had to do to was draw around a basic dress block front and back making sure that I traced off all of the markings. Once I had done this I then had to cut them out.

2. As my design was quite complex I had to break it down into different sections so that I didn't find it quite as confusing. I started off by altering the waistband on my block. I measured on the mannequin how far above and below the waistline I wanted my waistband to be as I needed to extend it. I went 10cm above the waistline and 4cm below to create a large waistband as it was on my design. Once I had decided the width I then had to mark it off on my pattern measuring from the waistline.

3.I cut along the waistline. I then had to use the slash and spread method to move my darts. I cut down one side of the dart up to the bust line and I then cut up my other dart to the same point. As i closed up my top dart this then opened up the bottom dart.

4. I had to slash and spread the bottom of the dress block. I had to split it into 4 sections by drawing 3 lines on then I cut up each of them for me to be able to slash and spread.

5. I then had to close up my dart which then opened up the bottom of my pattern more.






6. I then got another piece of paper and drew on a right angle then folded it in half as I was creating half of my back skirt pattern piece.

7. I then had to line the edge of my pattern that I had just slashed and spread. I lined the centre back line on the 90` folded line and then lined my side line up with my drawn on line this then gave me a smooth edge at the top of my pattern.

8. I then taped my slashed pattern down and then drew around it, making sure that I traced off all my lines and markings.

9. I then had to fold my pattern in half and then cut around it. When I started to cut around it I realised my paper didnt meet on one side because i'd cut it too short.

Problem Solve

To problem solve I had to add more paper to my pattern to make it the same size. I then carried on cutting it out so that I had a complete back pattern piece.

10. I then had to do the same with my front pattern piece, however I had to consider my zip while creating my pattern as I was putting a feature zip in the centre front.

11. When creating my front pattern piece I realised that as I was having a zip in the centre front that I would only need to cut out one front pattern piece and just cut X2 out of my fabric.

12. Once I had drawn around my front pattern piece and traced off all my markings I had to think about my seam allowance and where I needed to add it in. I became confused as to whether I needed to add a seam allowance to my centre front.

Problem solve

To problem solve whether I needed to add a seam allowance in I had to match up on my pattern where the edge of the fabric would come too, I then realised that as the edge of the fabric would meet on the centre front line then I wouldn't need to add a seam allowance to that line.

13. I then added a 1cm seam allowance around the front of my skirt except for my centre front line, I could then cut it out.

Neck

14. I then had to create a pattern piece for my collar piece. I had to start off by modelling on the stand using pattern paper to try and achieve the shape and size neck piece I wanted through trial and error.

15. Once I had got my initial pattern piece for my collar I then had to measure it on my neck as it looked slightly small, it was slightly tight so I then had to alter it.





16. I measured my collar pattern piece against my bodice pattern piece to make sure that it fitted together properly. When I measured it against my pattern it was 0.75cm to small. I needed to extend my collar piece so that it would have more ease around the neck, I also had to add in 0.75.

Problem solving

17. When problem solving how to make my collar piece bigger I had to use the slash and spread method as this allowed me to open up my pattern to be able to extend my pattern.

18. I then traced around my new pattern and then cut it out.

Sleeve

19. I then had to create my pattern for my sleeve, I did this by tracing around a basic sleeve block making sure I traced off all my markings.

20. When I looked at my sleeve after tracing it off I decided that the sleeve was too big and not quite the right shape so I had to adapt it to how I wanted it. I did this by slashing up my pattern piece and then gathering it in to make it smaller, when I got it it to the size that I wanted i then traced around it and re-cut it back out.

 

Imovie presentation

FMP developing a fashion figure

In class we had to develop and stylise fashion figures that we were then able to transfer onto our design boards. I took my inspiration from the day of the dead to style my figures differently and I also gave them a surreal twist as surrealism is my favourite kind of art movement.

Design Boards...

Recently in class we had to chose our final collection from our designs that we had drawn, I managed to chose 4 different outfits I then had to do my design board showing off my chosen garments and I had to make it to my own style. I stylised my figures to be in different poses that I thought might fit into my target market, I then wanted to give it quite a surreal and eerie feel so I chose to stylise the heads of my figures as lips which were inspired by day of the dead.
Here are my 2 finished design boards..

FMP Continued...

After I researched into Gothic style I then started thinking about how I could move my idea along. I started off by looking into Gothic architecture, I looked at Cathedrals, Churches and grave yards. I wanted to take details and combine them into my designs. I started to collect primary research by going out and photographing churches and graveyards from my local area. I wanted to look at the shape of the churches and the pattern on the windows.

Alexander McQueen!

I was flicking through the shows at Paris fashion week autumn/ winter 2013-14.

Sarah Burton stole the show with her Alexander McQueen collection. For my latest project i've looked into using lace and layering my fabric so I found this collection even more inspiring.

Designs..

I had to begin designing ideas ready for my final collection based on my previous thread. I looked into gothic architecture and horror. I wanted to take different main features from my research and use them on my garments. I decided to focuss on panels, lines, pleats, lace, layers and collars, I wanted to combine these different things to see what the outcome of my garment would be.